Alexander McQueen | Autumn/Winter 2016| Runway Show
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Alexander McQueen | Autumn/Winter 2016| Runway Show
http://www.alexandermcqueen.com - Alexander McQueen's 2016 Autumn/Winter Collection
AUTUMN/WINTER 2016
Like a magical sprite beneath a starlit sky, this season’s McQueen woman drifts between dream and reality obsessively gathering precious treasures on her way. She is a night creature inhabiting a charmed and Surreal world. Intoxicating white flowers that bloom only after dark – Magnolia, Tuberose and Jasmine - clock faces edged with pearls, jewelled eyes and floating lips, owls, moths, doves, swans and the mythical unicorn travel with her. So too does the archetypal symbol of womanhood, the moon. Spellbound by vanity also, antique perfume bottles, dressing table mirrors and powder compacts further embellish her clothing. Her wardrobe is hyper-feminine, ethereal and gently cocooning juxtaposed with references to the men’s tailoring tradition that remains at the heart of the house of Alexander McQueen. A tender spirit finds light in the darkness. Evening dressing: tuxedo, boudoir and lingerie inspired.
The collection contrasts the light, delicate and quintessentially feminine with an oversized silhouette borrowed from menswear. The dress codes of the boudoir are drawn upon: sheer, lace-trimmed lingerie dresses, marabou feathers and quilted silk satin eiderdown coats are played off against impeccably cut tuxedo jackets with a strong, Forties shoulder and a deconstructed draped or double lapel. These are worn with narrow trousers that also appear under knee-length dresses and sun-ray pleated skirts. The aforementioned motifs are printed, enlarged and appliquéd, embroidered and over-embroidered across everything from overcoats with opulent, inky collars fastened with jeweled trinkets to languid bias-cut slips. Shrunken leather perfectos are veiled in black tulle. Tiered and ruffled silk and lurex knits are worn with leather corsetry hand-painted with night flowers. As the collection progresses the woman who wears it becomes increasingly undone. Fabrics seem almost to unravel and the breastbone or shoulder is exposed. Coats are worn with nothing but a silk bra and cami knickers beneath them. At the same time, surface embellishment is ever more elaborate. A celestial moon and star gown and cape are encrusted with tiny silver and gold beads and sequins respectively. More flowers and swarms of silk butterflies decorate necklines and hems.
Satin backed wools, silk jacquards, silk satins, chiffon, organza, lace, tulle, point d’esprit, nappa leather.
Tulle pink, vanity pink, boudoir pink, pearl, black, midnight blue, dream blue, true red, silver and gold.
Ankle-strap sandals with high, mirrored heels are crafted in velvet and leather, lined with boudoir pink, true red and ivory shearling or studded with charms. Flat velvet slippers, brothel creepers and brogues are embroidered with nocturnal flora and fauna, Surreal and dressing table motifs.
Jewelled charm earrings, chokers, necklaces and hairpins finish all looks as do winged ear cuffs.
Bedhead hair is pinned loosely with multiple jewelled grips. Make-up is natural. Eyes are dark.

Music:
“Arthur”
Written & Produced by Kelly Lee Owens
Mixed by Kelly Lee Owens
Engineered by James Greenwood
Mastered by David Oversby-Powell

"Hospital"
Written & performed by Jóhann Jóhannsson
Published by Mute Song Limited
Courtesy of Jóhann Jóhannsson
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